September 2024 saw two teams of 12 Diamonds head for an adventure in Japan - this is the story from Team 1.

Kirren, Sue & Sue, Michele

Marg, Dot, Marie-Claire, Jenny

Julie & Julie, Kath, Deb...HIKE!

The day was finally here…we’d trained for this; we’d overcome some injuries and were still dealing with a few new ones. But these 11 intrepid women were pumped and ready to ‘bring it on’. We had well over 100 km, total ascents of over 6000m, same in descents in front of us. Janet had presented us with a talisman of the 3-legged Crow to bring us luck and keep us safe- I believe it was responsible for doing just that.

Of course, since we had chosen to go in autumn, we were a little shocked to actually be there at the tail end of the hottest summer on record and temperatures were still predicted in the low to mid-30s. Whilst on the bright side there was minimal rain predicted…on the not-so-bright side the humidity ran at almost 100 % every day…our pores were never more cleansed.

We all finally met up in Osaka coming in at various times and flights…everyone was buddied up and shared a few of the things that they were a little nervous about. A common one was this ‘getting naked and communal bathing idea’. Seriously what was a modestly towel the size of a glorified postage stamp going to hide...the tops bits or the bottom bits?? As it turned out...it really wasn’t that confronting at all and having that ritual at the end of every long sweaty day was pure bliss.

There were a few concerns about the food. It was very Japanese- an array of up to 10 little dishes at all meals with all sorts of tasty titbits as well as tempura, sashimi, a hot pot. For some this was a delight…others a bit of a struggle, but none went hungry, and all the guesthouses went to such efforts for every meal…truly top class restaurant quality.

We enjoyed a night out and all went to bed a little nervous of what was ahead.

“Julie and Debra

City and Country girls two

Roomies forever”

Day 1. Getting to Tannabe.

The first leg was to make our way to Shin Osaka...negotiated the crowds and how to buy a ticket to go to Tannabe, a 2.5 hrs train ride down to the Kii Peninsula…we managed and soon were off, going along the coast and dotted with little villages and orange orchards.

Once at Tannabe and dropped our luggage at the Info Centre...we thought it was fitting to go down to the first coast we were heading off from to dip our toes in the water…some lunch and off to the briefing run by Shin-yu the World Ex liaison. Since this was a self-led hike, I paid particular attention and hoped that I would remember it all!! We all collected our pilgrimage booklet, in which we collected stamps at various shrines and ojis along the way…. proof to be recognised as a pilgrim.

Dipping toes in the water on the Tanabe coastline.

Shin-yu accompanied us to Tokei-jinja Shrine where we were part of a Purification Ceremony…this was a ritual performed before pilgrimage treks on the ancient Kumano. We were a little nervous with our evergreen branch…left hand down, right hand up, swap hands, flip, place stem towards the alter. Bow twice, clap twice, bow again!!! Phew, I think we all nailed it! The Miko (female attendant) offered a sacred dance… and now I think we were as protected for our upcoming journey as we could be.

Dinner out, a quick rejig of packing and off to bed.

Day 2. Shiomi-Toge Pass- 22+km Ups 640m Downs 550m

Not many people do this leg as most opt for the bus to Takijiri- but we signed up for Coast to Coast so of course we did it!

It was a little tricky navigating our way out of the town with not much more than a mud map…so many little streets, so sunny, so hot!! You know how I mentioned a new injury earlier on…well unfortunately, the pounding on concrete aggravated the tendonitis in Sue G’s foot and soon it was just too painful for her to continue…Sue C stepped up and together they organised themselves to head back to town and indeed take that popular bus!

For the rest of us it was onward and upward finally leaving the concrete jungle and tackling the Nagao-zaka Slope..it wasn’t long before we were treated with view back down to the coast where we had been just a few hours before…enjoying the cover of the tree canopy and appreciating the lush greenery all around.

A wide trail followed our lunch break, and we could all spread out a bit to tackle the next incline at our own pace…this led to a little bit of confusion and the last two started to doubt they were on the correct trail…without too much about it- I launched a brief rescue mission and eventually found them, with the help of WhatsApp messages.

We had to meet a shuttle bus by 5pm that afternoon and we had lost some time with the injury and this ‘rescue’. I had told the first group to go ahead and soon they came across a track that claimed to be a short cut to Takijiri. I had asked about it at the briefing and was told...No- don’t take it!! But I am so glad they did…it cut off a few kms of road and although a steep and at times slippery track it was nothing we had not done at training before (thank goodness for TT).

The trail less travelled…perfect for Diamonds.

They made their way through the town to find our bus stop. In the meantime, I knew my little group were in danger of not making the bus…we too took the short cut…and at the end of that was another little sign claiming to be another short cut...it looked a bit dodgy, but we took a leap of faith and took it anyway. Weirdly it took us directly to the bus stop and who should we see coming from the other direction?…the first group!! So, we were all reunited and made it with 15 minutes to spare. (Thank you 3-legged crow)

So off we went to Takahara..a quaint little village 3 kms up the road…nicknamed ‘village in the mist’.

This was the first of our ‘real Japan’ experiences. Kiri-no-Sato Takahara Lodge ‘Organic Hotel” was filled with an eclectic assortment of decorations...offered view from every room down across the mountains, and had the first of our many communal bathing onsens. We soon got the hang of sitting on our very low to the ground stools, showered ourselves with the handheld shower nozzles, lathering up with the provided shampoo and body wash, keeping our splashing to a minimum!! Then time to soak in the hot bath...tell you, it worked a treat to soothe those first day trek muscles.

Dinner was a feast of so many little bowls of goodies…don’t know what was in half of them- but it all tasted fantastic…the G&T’s to wash it down were fantastic too!!

“Hiking ancient trails

Cedar trees majestic tall

Taking our breath away”

Day 3, Takijiri to Chitatsuyu -14km Ups 1010 m Downs 840m

After another feast for the eyes and stomach for breakfast...Everyone was back on deck as we went down the road to get shuttled back to Takijiri to continue where we left off yesterday at Takijiri Oji…considered the main trailhead for the Nakahechi Route. We had been warned about the steepness of the beginning of the trail...but really it wasn’t too bad...slow and steady. About 15 mins into the climb is set of boulders called Tainai-Kuguri…a short narrow tunnel through the rocks likened to nature’s womb….so we climbed through to be ‘reborn’.

The undulating trail again canopied by tall cedars, criss-crossed with gnarly tree roots was a delight to hike on…we passed Takahara again- and along the way were excited to collect our pilgrim stamps at various Ojis, reached our peak at Owadawa-jaya and meandered down the valley- to stay at Minshuka Chitasuya. Well…all but three who, (due to some niggly injuries) took up the offer of the accommodation for a lift for that last few kms…don’t think they thought it would be in the back of a small ute!!

This was another charming guesthouse with the Hisui-no-yu Onsen from a hot spring adjacent to the inn. The water famous for its smooth texture. Most of us felt rejuvenated after our soak unfortunately Julie H felt a little worse for wear suffering rather nasty slip resulting in some serious bruising- but thankfully no serious injury (Thank you 3-legged crow)

“Sacred Pilgrim trails

Majestic Mystical Zen

Transcended Diamonds”

Day 4 Doyuggawa-bashi to Hongu Taishi- 20 km Ups 960m Downs 1440m.

Due to the ongoing big and small niggles that were being experienced and that we had a finishing deadline to meet a bus at the end, we took the option of skipping the first 6 km of road and took the public bus to the trailhead.

Today was just spectacular …unbelievably pretty, moss covered rocks and logs, babbling brooks, and the ever-present taller cedar trees providing that much needed canopy from the still intense heat…a taking the edge off the humidity.

The undulating trail wound its way down the mountain finally emerging at Kumano Hongu Taisha- the heart of Kumano where all pilgrimage trails lead to. This Grand Shrine originally built over 900 yrs ago has been moved and rebuilt over the centuries due to fires and floods- but has been in its present location since 1891…retaining the same austere architectural style.

We made the bus and headed to Yunomine Onsen for the night. It has a history of over 1800 years as a site for purification rites.

“Twelve women ascend

Ancient Spiritual peaks

Chatter, laughter, friends”

Day 5 Yunomine Rest Day.

The itinerary suggested a short yet steep hike -connecting Yunomine to Hongu Taisha called Dainichi-goe so most opted for this 300 m up and 300m down ‘easy‘ hike to take us back towards Hongu Taisha to explore the shrine in more detail…buy up an assortment of amulets to provide protection for all sorts of life’s circumstances…from an easy baby delivery to longevity and traffic safety for dogs.

The hike also took us past Otorri, the largest torri gate in the world- standing at an impressive 33.9 m tall and 42m wide.

Once back at Yunomine we had the time to head over to the public onsen to take advantage of the hot springs healing waters…also to boil some eggs in the public cooking basin Yuzutsu. You place the string basket of eggs in the 2m square 93-degree hot spring water for 13 minutes…and voila…you have perfect onsen tamago (hot spring eggs) ready to eat.

“Pink and purified

Naked rejuvenation

Crows, shrines, amulets”

Day 6 Hatenashi-toge-10 km but Ups 930m Downs 990m

Today allowed us to experience a day on the southernmost pass of the Kohechi route---not for the fainthearted- a staggering ascent over 5 km of all up- was it ever going to end. To be followed by 5 km of all down. The last kilometre being so steep and slippery it took us a whole hour to complete…with no falls (thank you 3-legged crow).

The trail is lined with Buddhist Statues…and so many colours and varieties of fungi- of course and there were some amazing views to definitely make it worthwhile. Especially of the rice paddy field perched on the ridge….and a swing bridge at the end to make your heart race a little faster.

The return bus back took us to Kawayu Onsen, a little down the road from the previous night- the treat here being right on the river, you can dig yourself a little pool in the pebbles to make your own little hot pool.

A few of the group still nursing some injuries and blisters- opted for a hike closer to home today instead- Akagi-Goe, this was another beautiful trail which did not disappoint them.

“Unseasonable

Kumano heat tests the soul

Joy at Journeys end”

Day 7 Kogumotori-goe to Koguchi- 14 km Ups 690 m Downs 670 m

Today provide a bit of a breather with nice gradual ascents in mostly forested mountains. There was a wonderful lookout provided a panoramic view of the 3600 peaks of Kumano. Ok, there isn’t really 3600 peaks…it’s just a local expression trying to convey the rugged and numerous mountains of the area.

We experienced more peaceful forest trails and wound our way down to our accommodation which was an old junior high school renovated in 1982- the classrooms now Japanese style guest rooms. There was a bit of PTSD from our trekking school teachers…thinking they had escaped the classrooms for this hike!!

The river behind the school was welcome sight and a few of us took advantage of the cool waters to wash away the day’s efforts.

A well deserved break for leader Michele.

Day 8 Ogumotori-goe to Nachisan- 14km Ups 1260m Downs 930m

This was the most challenging day of the Nakahechi route…so formidable a day, we were heralded off to the sound of a giant horn by the guesthouse owner. Another 5 km of consistent ascent called the Dogiri-zaka...this translated to “Body Breaking Slope” so you get the idea!! But we set a consistent pace and really it was easy to be distracted from the ‘body breaking’ aspect by the sheer beauty of it all. More lush green mossy cobblestone trails, cedar and cypress forests and vast views providing glimpses of the coast in the far distance.

This trail led us to the spiritual compound of Nachi Taisha. It was an orange/red delight, less austere than Hongu Taisha- with the tallest waterfall in Japan providing an impressive backdrop.

A bit of fun could be had by passing through the roots of a 1000 year old camphor tree- again likened to being reborn through nature’s womb. It also was said to help your wish or prayer come true. Chris Hemsworth was not waiting on the other side—so not sure about that!!

Day 9 Nachi to Katsuura 8.5 km

Our last day on the trail…taking care at the beginning descending the Daimon-zaka slope- an atmospheric stone staircase lined with ancient trees- but oh so slippery. We finally we arrived at the other coast.

We made our way to the rather swish Hotel Urashima- a huge complex on a peninsula jutting out into the Pacific Ocean.

After settling in to the grand huge rooms with ocean views we our way to a stunning cave onsen- a series of hot baths with the most spectacular views of the ocean….ahh what a way to end the day!

But wait there was more…we ascended the world’s longest escalator that went on forever to a viewing platform to see our final sunset- toasted ourselves with a drink and belted out a rendition of Miley Cyrus’s The Climb…to celebrate the thousands of metres we’d managed over the past days.