by Anna M.

Taking the plunge: A first timer’s perspective of Flinders Island

It’s Tasmania. It’s May. I’m shivering in my swimmers, about to submerge myself into the icy water of the Bass Strait and questioning my life choices. But I’ve come this far, I’m not about to back out now.

In truth, diving into the freezing water is the easy part. I took the real plunge seven months ago when I impulsively turned up to a Diamonds trek training session at 6.30 on a random Saturday morning in October. I had no clue about hiking and absolutely no idea that less than a year later I’d find myself on an island I’d never heard of, sleeping in tents and trekking up mountains with 11 other women - many of them complete strangers.

Me at my Wednesday evening Trek Training.

Day 1

After training and talking about the trip for what feels like forever, it doesn’t really hit home that it’s actually happening until we’re at the airport. There are 12 of us coming to Flinders Island. Most are well-seasoned hikers with an impressive number of trips behind them, but three of us - Jo, Claudia and myself - are on our first multi-day hike and have no idea what to expect.

First-Timers reach the summit of Mt Strzelecki - the highest peak on Flinders Island.

We arrive in Launceston in the late afternoon and meet up with Jayne who has flown in from Victoria. Then it’s off to our hotel where we’re spending the night in preparation for our early start the next day.

Day 2

Morgan from World Expeditions picks us up and drives us to the airport at Bridgeport, where we’re greeted enthusiastically by a young man with a mop of hair and a huge grin. He introduces himself as Steve, our pilot for the 30-minute flight to Flinders Island.

As we fly in a terrifyingly small plane over endless pristine water and white sandy beaches the remoteness of where we’re going really hits home. Flinders Island is one of 52 islands in the Furneaux Group of islands, located in the Bass Strait just northeast of Tasmania. It’s around 30 by 60 km and has a population of around 1000 people. It’s also only accessible by plane, unless you want to spend 14 hours on a barge.

After landing at Whitemark - one of the two main towns on the island, we’re met by Matt and Jesse, our other two guides. We have lunch, introductions and a briefing, then we’re off on our first hike to a place called Castle Rock - a huge granite boulder perched on the edge of the beach.

In the warm light of the afternoon sun, we wander past huge rocks and boulders scattered across beaches and dunes. Distinctive orange lichen gives many of the rocks a rusty glow, like a giant took a paintbrush and swept it along the shore at random.

Next, we get back in the bus and head over to Wybalenna Chapel, the site of a failed Indigenous resettlement program in the 1800s. Matt sombrely tells us about the island’s more confronting history while we shiver in a biting wind. The chapel houses a memorial and we spend some time there learning and reflecting, all agreeing it’s important to understand the darker aspects of Flinders Island even as we appreciate its incredible beauty. Chilled inside and out, we get back in the bus and head over to our camp - home for the next week.

Opportunities to learn from our expert guides.

For us first-timers, the camping situation has been a topic of much discussion in the lead-up to this trip. None of us have ever camped before, even in a semi-permanent campsite like this one, and we have questions. Just how cold does Tassie get at night in May? Will we actually get any sleep without four solid walls and a roof around us? What about snakes and other wildlife? Our anxieties are not alleviated by the fact the information provided about shower facilities and toilets so far has been vague at best.

I’m expecting something utilitarian but the camp itself is lovely, with paths winding through the bush and tall, safari-like tents dotted at intervals between the trees. The central area is undercover with chairs and tables and a couple of extra rooms off to the side for making tea and reading or playing games. There’s a composting toilet and sink for washing our hands and it looks a lot less intimidating that I’d imagined.

As Jesse explains the convoluted process of heating the shower water, someone uses the word ‘luxury.’ Claudia, Jo and I exchange a few nervous looks. Our idea of luxury is more five star hotel room with a hot tub than heating your water for the outdoor shower in a bucket but clearly we’re in the minority. The tents themselves have stretcher beds and air mattresses as well as doonas and pillows.

The best part is the transparent roof that lets you lie in bed and look at the stars. This is wonderful until about 2.30am when the moon comes over and then it’s like someone is shining a torch in your face for the next few hours.

After settling into our tents we meet up in the main area for pre-dinner nibbles and realise the food will not be anything like we were expecting. We assumed we’d return detoxed and glowing, and probably a few kilos lighter from all the healthy food and exercise. Those expectations get a quick readjustment at the sight of the overflowing cheese platter that’s waiting for us.

But the cheese is just the start. From cooked breakfasts every morning to three-course dinners every night, we soon come to the conclusion we’re not on a hiking holiday, but an eating holiday with some hiking in between. We’re not complaining - the food is amazing and the guides seem to have a limitless ability to whip up incredible meals with minimal equipment or fuss.

The first night there’s cake for Linda’s birthday and we have fun celebrating with a glass or two of wine before heading off to our tents at the late hour of 7.30pm.

Day 3

The temperature varies between about three and eight degrees at night and it takes me a few attempts to get the hang of how much clothing to sleep in, so I wake up at intervals to shed layers and put them on again.

Preparing a hot water bottle for the cold night.

It’s absolutely freezing in the morning but it soon warms up as we head off for our first full day of hiking to Mount Killiecrankie, Old Man’s Head and the Docks.

The wind has died down and it’s a perfect blue-sky day as we wind our way up towards Old Man’s Head - an incredible rock formation that looks like an old man gazing thoughtfully out over the Bass Strait.

The granite is grippy which means we can walk, spiderwoman-like, up the steep sides of the rocks. It’s a lot of fun once we learn to trust our shoes. After Old Man’s Head, we continue up to the top of Mount Killiecrankie - going up, over, around, through and even under the numerous granite boulders and rocks.

The wind picks up towards the summit and we make the last scramble fighting the gusts. It’s a great feeling to reach the top and we’re rewarded with stunning views of the island. After some time spent looking around, we head back down the mountain towards the coast and our lunch stop at Stacky’s Bight Beach.

A wild windy summit of Mount Killiecrankie!

We descend through the Diamond Gully Trail - named after a type of topaz that grows in the granite, known as Killiecrankie diamond. Eventually we reach Stacky’s Bight - an incredible natural rock arch jutting out from a pristine beach. A few of us brave the water and have a swim, then after lunch we head off along the coast towards the docks - an endless stream of mind-blowing views and spectacular natural gardens scattered with rocks.

At the docks, we find the bus waiting and head back to camp for more food, a glass of wine and a shower. Even though we can’t get more than two or three dribbles to come out of the shower head, it’s amazing how good the water feels after a long day hiking. There’s also a satisfying sense of achievement from the amount of effort involved in heating the water that you just don’t get from turning on the tap at home.

Day 4 & 5

Today we’re excited as we’ve been promised not only a beautiful walk to the northern tip of the island, but a safari to see the Flinders Island Big Five.

First though, we’re off to a small settlement called Palana. Starting at Palana beach, we set off across sand undisturbed by human footprints although it looks like the wallabies and wombats have had a party in places. Across the sand and over rocks we go, passing jagged cliffs rising from the beach and lichen-covered boulders of every shape and size. Another beach lunch stop and another bracing swim for the brave (or crazy), and then we’re up off the beach and into the dunes.

Here, the landscape changes yet again as we walk through undulating grasses and scrubby bush. We skirt quickly around a very big and alert copperhead snake coiled up by the side of the path. Then we pile into the bus for our much-anticipated safari where we see three of the Flinders Island Big 5 - Bennets wallabies, wombats and Cape Barron geese - as strains of Toto’s Africa drift through the bush.

Soon, we arrive at the mouth of the northeast river where we hop out of the bus and down to the beach. Here, we’re rewarded by Flinders Island number four - a pod of dolphins. They come close to shore and even do a few flips for us. We don’t see number five - the wedge-tailed eagle - today, but we do see a few later in the week.

The next day the guides take us on a route they haven’t been on before - inland to Walker’s Lookout, then towards Mount Pillinger through bushland and fire trails. While pretty, the scenery is less aggressively spectacular than the last few days which provides some relief from sensory overload.

After our lunch stop, Matt and Jesse decide to change the plan and abandon Mount Pillinger to give us time to explore Whitemark, replenish our dwindling wine supplies and rest a bit before our big climb up Mount Strzelecki tomorrow. Some of us go to the gift shop, others to the art gallery and a few of us end up in the pub for a quick beer in front of the fire. After reuniting with Ali who has been in town working all day, we return to camp.

At camp, it’s amazing how quickly we settle into a comfortable rhythm, especially as many of us didn’t know each other before. There’s a strong sense of solidarity and everyone pitches in to help everyone else out. From stretching recommendations from Ali to a sympathetic ear from Jo, from Therese patiently showing me how to heat the shower water, to regular check-ins from Jacq and encouraging words from Linda, bus singalongs with Grace and Joan, sharing wine with Jayne, hilarious camel stories from Jill and Wendy and late night laughs with Claudia. Every single person does at least one thing that makes my week a little bit - or a lot - more wonderful.

Camp life made special by wonderful guides and new friends.

After dinner each night, we sit around chatting in our hats and gloves until the big pots of water on the stove come to a boil. Then we line up like Dickensian orphans at a soup kitchen to fill our hot water bottles and hug them until it gets too cold and we have to go to bed.

Day 6

Today we’re summiting Mount Strzelecki, the highest point on the island at 756 metres. It’s the big event we’ve been working up to all week. The weather is perfect and as it’s the last trip of the season, all three guides decide to come with us up the mountain, instead of leaving one behind at camp.

We set off a bit earlier than usual and assemble at the bottom of the track, staring down the cloud-shrouded peak with a bit of apprehension (at least on my part). From the ground it looks very far away and very high.

We ascend steadily through distinct layers of landscape. From scrubby bush and rocks to lush forest, it’s like travelling through multiple worlds and time periods as we get higher. We peer through the trees at giant boulders scattered across surrounding hillsides like they were placed there by aliens. Other parts are so ancient we wouldn’t be surprised to see a dinosaur emerge from the prehistoric-looking trees.

After a few hours of climbing during which I gain a new appreciation of why we do so many stairs during trek training, we reach the top.

It’s tough, especially for those of us who have never climbed a mountain before and we’re all giddy with the achievement. Luckily there’s barely a breath of wind and perfect clear skies all around. The views are breathtaking. As we sit around eating our lunch, the guides tell us it’s rare to get everyone in a group up to the top and having 15 people on the summit is unprecedented.

After an hour or so soaking up the view we descend very slowly and carefully. Once we’re all down safely, we head off to Whitemark again for a celebratory drink at the wharf cafe. It’s also an opportunity to use a real, flushing toilet which after a week of composting toilets feels - and smells - like a decadent luxury.

Day 7

It’s time to say goodbye to our home for the last week, and it feels like it’s gone so fast. After everything is packed up, we have a short walk along the beach before heading to Whitemark for coffee and some last-minute souvenir shopping. Then it’s back on the bus for our lunch stop at Trousers Point. We walk around the headland and look out at Chapel island, just off the coast and inhabited exclusively by extra-large tiger snakes. Then it’s on to Trousers Point Beach - a stunning expanse of pristine sand and turquoise water, with Mt Strzelecki in the background.

We have lunch at the beach and say our goodbyes to this incredible place, before heading back to Lady Barron airport via the pub for our flight back to the Tassie mainland. This time our tiny plane is taking off from a grass runway which is confronting, and the nerves are not helped when our pilot Gerald informs us they’re ‘not technical around here.’

We make it safely back to Launceston where most of us head straight for our hotel rooms for a long overdue proper shower. The wonderful Ali opts to forego the hot shower and heads to Kmart to get photo books printed for us, which is greatly appreciated - thank you Ali.

After a lovely dinner, we say a sad goodbye to Jesse, Matt and Morgan and head off to sleep in our first proper beds in a week.

Day 8

We have a day in Launceston before catching our late afternoon flight back. After having our days planned meticulously, unstructured time feels a bit strange. Some people go shopping, others potter around the town. A few of us head over to Launceston Gorge, then wander around the shops until it’s time to leave.

Landing in Sydney in the pouring rain is a bit of a shock after endless blue skies. There’s just time for a quick goodbye at the baggage carousel before we head back to our lives. As I jump in the taxi to go home, I feel a huge wave of sadness that it’s over, but it’s quickly replaced by gratitude for the experience. It was such an adventure - definitely a challenge but an achievable one.

I’ve come away inspired, invigorated and with so many wonderful stories, new friendships and an extra half a kilo from the amazing food. It was a huge privilege to be able to take a week out of my life and immerse myself in such a special place with such a supportive, inspiring group of women and I will never forget it.

Thank you so much to Wendy, Therese, Ali, Linda, Joan, Grace, Jill, Jayne and my fellow first-timers Claudia and Jo for making my first multi-day hike so incredible. And special thanks to Jacq for all the support, encouragement and endless patience with my random questions and occasional freakouts. And for making me walk up so many stairs. Bring on the next trip!

Exploring Flinders Island - a hiking woman's perspective.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT OF COUNTRY

Diamonds in the Rough Adventures acknowledges the Traditional Owners of the lands on which we hike and trek, and recognise their continued connection to country. We pay our respects to them, their cultures, and to their Elders past and present.

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Diamonds in the Rough Adventures (ABN: 38901837498)