Hiking the Royal National Park End to End in 8 hours!

By Bernadette

One of the things that happen when you know you have to be up before the sun to arrive at a destination on time is you don’t get much sleep…

That nervous energy plays havoc with the mind as it tries to settle into a deep sleep.  This was the discussion taking place as I sat on the bus with other intrepid adventures as we drove towards the sunrise, ready to start our journey at Otford.

We alighted from the bus into the brisk air, feeling the sun on our cheeks as we gazed out over the open sea hoping for our first glimpse of a whale. Packs were checked, gear was checked, all was in order and we were off.  Personally, I find the first part of the Coastal Track through the Royal National Park the hardest. That walk down to Burning Palms is slippery, narrow and risky. Our wonderful coaches, Clare, Jo and Jacq gave us many warnings and all care was taken, but Burning Palm’s lived up to its name and, unfortunately, one of our adventurers injured her ankle and couldn’t continue.  I was so impressed with the coaches at this point. The way they did first aid, assisted our co-adventurer out of the park, arranged for her to get to the doctors and keep the hike going all at the same time was professional, efficient and full of care and compassion.

The Coastal Track did not disappoint. As soon as we reached the first clifftop above Burning Palms we saw our first whale. And then another. And then another and the day continued liked this.  We watched the mist rise from the ocean below as the sun grew higher in the sky.  There were moments of chatter followed by moments of silence as all the women just breathed it in.

A quick stop at Garie Beach and we were back on the track, having to face the stairs out of Garie. The climb has changed since I last did it. The stairs have definitely made it easier, although I’m going to call it as I see it – it is not easy!  The lactic acid burn was very real on that climb.  The team set a cracking pace as we kept hiking along the ridge, again enjoying the sites of whales and sea eagles.  Talk soon turned to ideas of lunch as stomachs started to rumble.  We knew lunch was waiting for us at Wattamolla, but we weren’t quite sure what it would be.

Coach Michele was there, greeting us with a banquet! A warm, hot lunch followed by dessert combined with fresh water, first aid for feet (if required), hand sanitizer and hot cups of tea and coffee were waiting.  True to their word about sustainability, there was not one plastic plate or disposable piece of cutlery in sight.  I’m one of those people who have sensitivities to so many different foods that I usually take my own; it proves impossible most times to have others cater for me. Michele wanted to take on the challenge though.  I arrived to Michele setting up a camping cooker to cook me a stir-fry in the middle of the National Park.  My hat goes off to you, Michele. It exceeded my expectations, was delicious and perfect after 17 km of hiking in the cold, winter air.

We were off again for our final leg. I won’t lie, this seemed to have more uphills on this leg than I remember from last time.  A quietness fell over the party as women became lost in their thoughts, in the scenery and the sheer challenge of walking 30 kms before the sun went down. And then we stopped. And then we roared. We had come to an open face on the cliff ridge and paused to see if there were whales. One breached.  Did we just see that? Are our eyes lying to us?  Again, it happened again and there was a loud whoop from all the adventurers. It was right there, just out of reach, but right there. Then there were two, and the two whales were jumping in and out of the water, playing and frolicking in the sea whilst the Diamonds all watched on, sometimes cheering, sometimes in silence just relishing the moment.  This is why we were there.

The walk continued and tiredness settled in and so too did more quiet.  We were so close to the end and the coaches stopped us to stretch.  It was a moment of conflict for me. I was at that point where I just needed to keep going, the finish was just around a few more bends, but the stretching was very much needed.  But here is where I made my vital mistake. I could feel hot spots starting to form. I should have stopped straight away and fixed my feet right there and then. All our years of training with the Diamonds has taught me to deal with hot spots straight away. We all know what happens when we don’t.  But, I looked at the time, I looked at the watch and thought “only 4 km to go” and continued.  Never continue with the hot-spots. They are not hot-spots when you finish, they are full blisters.

We hit the 28 km mark and I could smell the beach, but my feet were killing me and I didn’t think I could go any further but there was a tree.  Clare was behind me and said the tree was calling out to be climbed. I knew I didn’t have it in me, but she did. Next thing you know, Clare is up the tree, I’m taking photographs and the two of us are laughing like 5-year-olds and the energy was back – enough to get to the beach and end this walk.

I thought lunch was good, but the supper that was waiting on the beach was even better. Salty, savoury foods and drink to replenish the lost electrolytes and a celebration of the achievement.  We did it.  It was a cracking pace.  The whole 30 km was completed in 8 hours, and that included the 20 minute morning tea break and the 1-hour lunch break. 

I have to hand it to the Diamonds in the Rough coaches, they sure do know how to put on a day out, to challenge you, to entertain you, to feed you and show you the best of what our landscape has to offer.  Thank you, coaches!